South Africa

I believe one of the strangest things I have encountered on my trip is how quickly, and seemingly effortlessly, I adapt to my surroundings. Since early February I have been in several countries, several cultures, all very different from each other. I went from New Zealand to Thailand to Cambodia back to Thailand and then to South Africa. The only common factor these countries once shared was that I have never visited any of them before this trip. We plan, we pack, we go. New Zealand: check. Southeast Asia: check. South Africa: pending. I am having a hard time believing that I am finally on the continent that I have had such a fascination with for so many years. I am in Africa. Fair enough, I am in South Africa, but Africa nonetheless. When we first arrived here the feedback we received from locals about our plan to work and live in Kialetsche, Cape town's largest and most disadvantaged township, was discouraging to say the least. Most of the reactions were the same, a mixture of pity for our "naivety", fear for our safety and amusement at our idea. For me this was quite a disappointment. Africa was for me. This part of the trip was going to be my learning experience so such reactions were not welcomed on my part. It really frustrated me that we received no positive encouragement. Regardless, this is what I came to do, and this is what will be done. It took us quite a while to finally make it out to the township due to the busy schedule of the director, but when we finally arrived it was pretty much what I expected. Disheartening, dry, hot, overcrowded and poor. Very, very poor. Most of the homes and buildings are made out of recycled materials. By recycled materials I mean pieces of trash collected from the nearby landfill. Homes stood side by side, amongst which stood rows of toilets, randomly dispersed water taps and the occasional bar for some of the approximately 80% unemployed to pass some time. In the township there are guidelines that "guests" must abide by. There are certain streets that we just don't go down, even in our car. We are not to walk around unescorted by a local, even in broad daylight, and we are not to walk or drive around past sunset, period. I assume that as long as we follow these rules, we'll make it out in one piece :-) We were given a tour of the Shaster facilities; they are modest to say the least, but Di, the director, has some big plans. She is planning within the next five years, I believe, to convert 20,000 shacks into eco-cottages. Homes built out of sandbags and plaster using only solar power, growing their own gardens and becoming completely self sufficient--not relying on the very little that the government provides its suffering people. We went to the creche, preschool/orphange, and played with the children. Imagine about 40-50 babies and toddlers in a space about the size of your bedroom. That is the nursery. It's hot, crowded, a breeding ground for germs and bacteria and filled with the sweetest little faces. One little baby, the moment we walked to the door walked straight to Laura and reached up to her to hold him. They were all instantly consumed with their new guests. Three new faces, all of which appear to be very different from ones they have seen before. They touched our faces, rubbed our noses, examined our eyeballs and kissed our cheeks. They all vied for our attention, but unfortunately, it was difficult to spend time with all of them, seeing as there were so many of them and so few of us. For those of the children who have not lost their parents to diseases such as aids, the parents have to pay a moderately high price for the care. They have so little income and practically all of it goes to their expenses so quickly. From food to clothing to nursery to schooling to medical expenses to paying off debts, how can they possibly afford it. Thankfully, some can and thankfully the rate of extreme hunger in this township is very very small. Most families may not go to sleep very full, but they do go to sleep with something. There is a 45% aids infected rate in the township as well and TB isn't an unknown disease here either. The people go through a lot but they were still very kind and warm with us, making us feel not as strangers but as guests. We move in on Friday. We have been staying at a beautiful lodge at the beach until we made arrangements to hire a car so that we have our own transportation out there. I must say that I will be sad to leave such a comfortable and clean guesthouse by the sea but eager to experiencing life in the township. I will hopefully post again, sometime soon, but internet will not be as readily available, so my access to it will be limited. We miss you all and I look forward to seeing my family and friends in a couple months.